Aulla

Discover Aulla

In 884 AD, Marquis Adalbert of Tuscany founded an abbey dedicated to Saint Caprasius at the confluence of the Magra and Aulella rivers, transforming a modest valley-floor settlement into an obligatory stopping point on the Via Francigena. Today, anyone wondering what to see in Aulla will find a lowland town at 64 metres above sea level, with 11,274 inhabitants, whose urban fabric preserves the precise traces of that passage between Liguria and Tuscany — a crossroads function it has never ceased to fulfil, not even after the 2011 flood that reshaped its appearance.

History and origins of Aulla

The name Aulla most likely derives from the Aulella torrent, which flows into the Magra river right at the edge of the town. The first documented mention dates to a diploma issued by Emperor Louis III in the year 900, confirming the possessions of the abbey founded by the Obertenghi marquises. The geographical position — at the exact point where the Magra valley opens out towards the sea — made the town a strategic node for controlling transit between the Po Plain and the Tyrrhenian coast. Archbishop Sigeric of Canterbury, in 990, recorded Aulla as stop number XXVIII on his return journey from Rome, noting it in the famous itinerary that we now reconstruct as the Via Francigena.

During the Middle Ages, control of the territory passed from the bishops of Luni to the Malaspina, the powerful feudal family that dominated the Lunigiana for centuries. The Malaspina built the Fortezza della Brunella between the late fifteenth and early sixteenth century, positioning it on a rocky spur overlooking the confluence of the two watercourses. In 1543 the fief passed to the Centurione, Genoese bankers, and was subsequently acquired by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The definitive annexation to the Grand Duchy occurred in the eighteenth century, and from that point Aulla followed the political fortunes of Tuscany up to Italian Unification.

On 25 January 2011 a flooding of the Magra devastated the town centre, severely damaging the built heritage and the Abbey of San Caprasio. The reconstruction, which lasted years, brought to light significant archaeological finds during the abbey’s restoration, including a stone reliquary casket attributed to Saint Caprasius, now displayed in the museum annexed to the church. This discovery, made in 2001 during earlier excavation work, confirmed the importance of the site as a pilgrimage station along the Francigena.

What to see in Aulla: 5 main attractions

1. Abbey of San Caprasio

Founded in 884, the abbey preserves architectural layers spanning from the ninth to the fifteenth century. Excavations carried out from 2001 uncovered a stone reliquary casket containing remains attributed to the patron saint Caprasius of Lérins, a fifth-century monk. The adjoining museum houses the finds and documents the building phases of the structure.

2. Fortezza della Brunella

Built between the late fifteenth and early sixteenth century, the fortress stands on a sandstone outcrop commanding the confluence of the Magra and Aulella. Its quadrangular plan with corner bastions reflects the principles of Renaissance military architecture. Since 1975 it has housed the Natural History Museum of the Lunigiana, with collections covering the fauna, flora and mineralogy of the area.

3. Via Francigena — The Aulla stage

Aulla corresponds to stage XXVIII of Sigeric’s itinerary. The official route passes through the town and continues towards Pontremoli to the north and Sarzana to the south. Waymarkers and signposts along the trail allow walkers to cover the stretches linking the valley floor to the surrounding ridges, where the path follows dirt tracks through chestnut and oak woods.

4. Church of San Martino di Caprigliola

In the hamlet of Caprigliola, about 4 kilometres from the centre, the church of San Martino dates to the twelfth century. The village itself — set on a hilltop overlooking the valley — retains a medieval urban layout with entrance gates still visible. The religious building features Romanesque elements on its facade and a square-based bell tower.

5. Natural History Museum of the Lunigiana

Set up in the halls of the Brunella, the museum documents the geology, botany and zoology of the Lunigiana with specimens collected across the territory. The sections dedicated to the minerals of the Apuan Alps and the fauna of the Magra basin serve as a key reference for the natural history of the area. Its location inside the fortress also provides a direct view of the sixteenth-century architectural structure.

Local cuisine and regional products

Aulla’s cuisine is that of the Lunigiana, a food tradition built on chestnuts, spelt and wild herbs. Testaroli — discs of dough cooked on red-hot cast-iron testi and then dressed with Genoese pesto or extra virgin olive oil — are the signature dish of the territory: here they are still prepared according to the original method, pouring a liquid batter of flour and water onto the scorching testo. Panigacci, similar in technique but thinner and crispier, are served with stracchino cheese and local cured meats. The focaccetta di Aulla, fried or cooked on stone, can be found in the shops around the centre. Among first courses, lasagne bastarde — made with a mix of wheat flour and chestnut flour — are a format exclusive to the valley. Torta d’erbi, prepared with chard, borage and Parmesan between two layers of thinly rolled pastry, appears on every family table. Miele della Lunigiana DOP, produced in the surrounding woodland areas, is certified in the acacia and chestnut varieties.

Among cured meats, the spalla cotta from Filattiera and lard prepared in the local tradition feature on cutting boards. The Toscano IGP extra virgin olive oil, under the Lunigiana geographical designation, comes from indigenous cultivars. The chestnut flour of the Lunigiana, which obtained Protected Designation of Origin status in 2015, is produced from chestnut groves cultivated between 200 and 800 metres of altitude and dried in metati — the traditional two-storey stone structures. This flour is used to make castagnaccio, necci filled with ricotta, and pattona, a dense chestnut polenta. In the autumn period, the testaroli festival and chestnut fairs enliven the hamlets of the municipality. Colli di Luni DOC wine, produced in the zone straddling Liguria and Tuscany, accompanies local dishes with white Vermentino and Sangiovese-based reds.

When to visit Aulla: the best time

The valley-floor climate makes Aulla accessible all year round, but the most suitable seasons are spring and autumn. From April to June temperatures range between 15 and 25 degrees, river levels are stable and the Francigena trails are easily walkable. On 1 June the feast of the patron saint San Caprasio is celebrated, with religious services in the abbey and events in the old town. Autumn — from September to November — brings fairs linked to chestnuts and forest products, with markets in the hillside hamlets of the municipality.

Summer can be hot and humid on the valley floor, with temperatures exceeding 30 degrees in July and August. Winter is mild compared to the Po Valley side, thanks to the shelter provided by the Apennines, but rain is frequent between November and February — in an area where annual rainfall often exceeds 1,200 millimetres. Those walking the Via Francigena will find pilgrim reception facilities, hostels and affiliated hotels in Aulla.

How to reach Aulla

Aulla is served by the A15 Parma–La Spezia motorway, with a dedicated exit at Aulla. From Milan the distance is approximately 200 kilometres (2 hours and 30 minutes); from Florence 170 kilometres (2 hours) via the A11 and then the A15; from La Spezia 35 kilometres (30 minutes). The Aulla Lunigiana railway station is on the Pontremolese line (Parma–La Spezia), with frequent regional trains in both directions. The nearest airport is Pisa-Galileo Galilei, approximately 100 kilometres away, connected to the A12 motorway and then to the A15. Parma airport is 95 kilometres away. For those arriving from Liguria, the A12 Genoa–Livorno motorway meets the A15 at the Santo Stefano di Magra junction, 15 kilometres from Aulla.

What to see in Aulla and in the nearby villages of Tuscany

The Lunigiana is a territory where the landscape changes dramatically within just a few kilometres: from Aulla’s valley floor you climb towards mountain communities that have maintained a direct relationship with the woodland and the stone. Casola in Lunigiana, 15 kilometres to the north-east, occupies a slope of the Tassonaro torrent valley and is known for its chestnut flour production and the Museo del Territorio dell’Alta Valle Aulella. The road connection along the SP20 follows the course of the Aulella, the same torrent that gives Aulla its name.

Further away, but reachable through the Garfagnana, Careggine lies approximately 50 kilometres to the south-east, on the opposite side of the Apuan Alps, at 873 metres of altitude. The village is known for its proximity to the artificial Lake Vagli, beneath whose waters lies the submerged settlement of Fabbriche di Careggine, visible only during the rare occasions when the reservoir is drained. From Aulla the route crosses the Passo dei Carpinelli and descends into the Garfagnana — a journey of about one hour that connects two geologically and culturally distinct sides of northern Tuscany.