Caciocavallo abruzzese

Discover Caciocavallo abruzzese

Among the peaks and valleys of Abruzzo, where the echo of traditions resounds strongly, a cheese is born that embodies the very essence of this land: the caciocavallo abruzzese. This product, recognizable by its characteristic shape hung over a beam, contains centuries of cheesemaking expertise. Each form tells a story of mountain pastures, quality cow’s milk, and skilled hands that, with precise gestures, transform simple ingredients into a gastronomic specialty of profound cultural significance.

What is the Caciocavallo abruzzese

The caciocavallo abruzzese is an aged spun-curd cheese, a genuine expression of the dairy tradition of Central-Southern Italy, with a strong regional identity in Abruzzo. Produced exclusively with cow’s milk, its processing involves the addition of only rennet, selected lactic ferments, and salt. The distinctive feature that makes it immediately recognizable is its shape: two rounded bodies joined by a constriction, which gives it the appearance of the number 8. This configuration is not arbitrary but functional for its traditional preservation and aging, which occurred “a cavallo” (astride) a beam or pole, from which its evocative name derives.

History and origins

The origins of caciocavallo extend into a distant past, evidenced as early as the Magna Graecia and Roman eras. Pliny the Elder, in his Naturalis Historia, described similar cheeses produced in Southern Italy, suggesting a remarkable historical continuity. The name itself, “caciocavallo,” evokes images of a time when these cheeses were hung over wooden beams for drying, a practice common among shepherds to optimize space and promote uniform aging. In Abruzzo, the production of this cheese is inextricably linked to pastoral culture and animal husbandry. The mountain and foothill communities, with their dedication to cattle farming, have refined processing techniques over centuries, passing down from generation to generation the knowledge required to create a product of such excellence. The caciocavallo abruzzese, in particular, has maintained a strong connection with artisanal techniques, resisting standardization and preserving its distinctive character.

Production area

The production area of caciocavallo abruzzese extends across the various provinces of Abruzzo, a region marked by an alternation of imposing mountain ranges, gentle hills, and fertile valleys. This varied landscape offers ideal conditions for cattle farming, with rich and diverse pastures that directly influence the quality and sensory properties of the milk. The inland areas, in particular, with their mountain pastures, contribute to imparting unique aromas and notes to the milk, which are then found in the aged cheese. Production is widespread in various areas, from the surroundings of Goriano Sicoli in the Subequana Valley, to localities near Celano in the Fucino Plain, and extending towards the Chieti hills, such as near Carpineto Sinello. It is in these contexts, where agriculture and pastoralism are still central activities, that cheesemaking knowledge is carefully handed down. The biodiversity of the forages, the purity of the air and water, and the expertise of breeders and cheesemakers, are all factors that contribute to defining the identity of this cheese, making it a true ambassador of traditional products from ABRUZZO.

How it’s made

The production of caciocavallo abruzzese is an art that requires patience and mastery, following a process that has its origins in tradition. It all begins with fresh cow’s milk, sourced from local farms. After the heating phase, rennet is added to the milk, initiating coagulation. The resulting curd is broken into small grains and left to rest to acidify naturally, thanks to the action of lactic ferments. The crucial moment is the spinning (filatura): the curd is cut into strips and immersed in hot water, where it acquires its characteristic elasticity. The skilled hands of the cheesemaker work and “spin” it energetically until a smooth and homogeneous paste is obtained. It is at this stage that the pear or bag shape is given, before being molded into an “eight” and prepared for hanging. Subsequently, the forms are immersed in brine for salting, a fundamental step that gives the cheese its flavor and promotes its preservation. Finally, the caciocavallo abruzzese is hung “a cavallo” on poles in cool, ventilated environments for aging. This period can vary from a few weeks to several months, during which the cheese develops its rind and refines its aromatic profile, acquiring complexity and intensity.

Taste and sensory profile

The caciocavallo abruzzese stands out for a sensory profile that evolves with aging, offering a rich and varied taste experience.

• External appearance: The shape is unmistakable, an “eight” or pear, with an upper head intended for hanging. The rind is thin, smooth, and straw-yellow in younger cheeses, tending to become thicker, harder, and darker, with shades ranging from intense yellow to brown, in more aged products.
• Paste: Inside, the paste is compact, elastic, and uniform. The color varies from milk-white to straw-yellow, with a possible presence of small, scattered eyes, a sign of artisanal processing.
• Aroma: To the nose, young caciocavallo abruzzese offers delicate notes of fresh milk, butter, and hay. With aging, the aromatic bouquet intensifies, developing more complex notes of dried fruit, aromatic herbs, spices, and, at times, a slight piquant accent.
• Flavor: In the mouth, young cheeses are sweet and buttery, with a pleasant savory taste. More mature ones reveal a more decisive, persistent, and structured flavor, with a hint of piquancy that enhances its complexity. The flavor persistence is remarkable, leaving a pleasant and lasting memory.
• Texture: The texture is firm yet elastic in fresher caciocavallo, becoming more crumbly and grainy with advancing age.

Among the interesting facts related to this family of cheeses, particular varieties such as the so-called “caciocavallo dell’emigrante” are also produced in Southern Italy, which encloses soppressata inside, an example of the creativity and richness of Southern Italian cheesemaking traditions, although it is not a specificity of caciocavallo abruzzese. More details on the caciocavallo family are available on Wikipedia.

Culinary uses

The caciocavallo abruzzese is an extremely versatile cheese in cooking, capable of enriching a wide variety of dishes, from appetizers to main courses.

• Pure tasting: In its younger versions, it is excellent sliced and served with homemade bread, perhaps accompanied by mountain honey or fruit preserves, which enhance its sweetness. It also pairs well with typical Abruzzese cured meats.
• Hot dishes: Its ability to melt without losing structure makes it ideal for cooking. It is exquisite grilled or pan-fried, where the rind caramelizes slightly and the interior becomes stringy and soft. It can be used to stuff focaccias, savory pizzas, or to enrich savory tarts.
• First courses: Aged caciocavallo abruzzese, grated, is an excellent condiment for pasta, particularly for robust dishes like pasta alla pecorara or for creaming risottos. It can be the protagonist of an Abruzzese version of cacio e pepe pasta, where its savoriness and creaminess create a perfect balance.
• Wine pairings: A young caciocavallo abruzzese pairs well with fresh and savory white wines, such as a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. For more advanced aging, a red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is recommended, which with its structure and soft tannins, balances the complexity and persistence of the cheese.

Why it’s a unique product

The uniqueness of caciocavallo abruzzese lies in a set of factors that make it a distinctive product in the Italian cheesemaking landscape. Firstly, its artisanal processing, passed down through generations, which still follows essential manual steps today, particularly the spinning of the curd, which gives the cheese its texture and iconic shape. The “eight” shape is not only aesthetic but functional to an ancient and specific aging method, which differentiates it from many other cheeses. Secondly, the profound connection with the Abruzzo territory. The milk used comes from farms that benefit from the varied pastures of the region’s mountains and hills, giving the caciocavallo abruzzese an aromatic profile that reflects the local flora. Each form of this cheese tells the story of an agriculture and pastoralism that respect the rhythms of nature and have preserved valuable expertise. It is a concrete expression of the biodiversity and gastronomic culture of Abruzzo, a cheese that is not just food, but also a narration of a place and its people. Its ability to offer different taste sensations depending on the aging, from sweet to savory-spicy, further enhances its value and appeal, positioning it among the most representative Italian traditional food products.

Certifications and recognition

The caciocavallo abruzzese is recognized as an Italian Traditional Agri-Food Product (PAT), a certification that attests to its historical and cultural importance. The PAT certification is a quality mark that the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies attributes to products that, while not falling under DOP or IGP regulations, possess processing, preservation, and aging methods consolidated over time, practiced homogeneously and continuously for at least twenty-five years. This recognition underscores the value of caciocavallo abruzzese not only as food but as an expression of a heritage of knowledge and traditions that deserve to be protected and promoted. Being a PAT means guaranteeing that the cheese is produced according to consolidated procedures, which reflect the history and identity of the Abruzzo territory, thus preserving its true nature and distinctive characteristics for future generations.

Where to taste and buy it

To fully savor the caciocavallo abruzzese and discover its true essence, the best way is to go directly to Abruzzo. This region offers countless opportunities to taste and purchase this cheese directly from producers.

• Dairies and farms: Many small dairies and farms, especially in the inland and mountainous areas, open their doors to visitors, offering the chance to witness the production phases and purchase freshly made or aged cheese. It is an experience that allows one to understand the work and passion behind each form.
• Local markets and specialized shops: The weekly markets of Abruzzese towns and shops specializing in traditional products are excellent places to find caciocavallo abruzzese. Here you can meet the producers and get advice on the aging best suited to your tastes. Villages like Acciano, whose streets exude history, or Magliano de’ Marsi, in the Marsica areas, are reference points for those seeking local and genuine products.
• Festivals and food and wine events: Throughout the year, Abruzzo hosts numerous festivals and events dedicated to traditional products. These events are the perfect opportunity to taste caciocavallo abruzzese in various preparations, discover unusual pairings, and immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere of the region.
• Restaurants and agriturismi: Many Abruzzese restaurants and agriturismi include caciocavallo abruzzese in their menus, offering it in appetizers, first courses, or as part of platters of local cheeses and cured meats. Tasting it in a setting that values local ingredients, perhaps with a view of the Abruzzese mountains, makes for a truly special experience.

Visiting Abruzzo for its caciocavallo means embarking on a journey that combines taste with the discovery of landscapes and traditions. It is an invitation to explore a region that, through its flavors, tells its truest identity.

📷 Photo: mdelbianco · CC BY-SA 4.0 · All credits →