Viterbo

Discover Viterbo

Rodrigo de Borja, the future Alexander VI, never passed through Viterbo by chance: the city was already in the 14th and 15th centuries one of the most delicate political hubs in central Italy, serving as a papal seat for decades during the upheavals that shook Rome.

The grey-green peperino stone walls of the historic centre’s buildings still bear the marks of that era: carved cornices, elegant double-arched windows, abraded coats of arms.

At 326 metres above sea level, the city spreads across a volcanic plateau overlooking the Lazio Tuscia region, with 63,707 inhabitants distributed between the medieval core and the modern districts.

What to see in Viterbo is a question that deserves concrete answers: the Palazzo dei Papi with its Gothic loggia, the medieval quarter of San Pellegrino, the natural Bullicame hot springs even cited by Dante, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, and the Etruscan-medieval walls that still encircle almost the entire historic centre.

Those planning a visit to Viterbo have before them a city that combines authentic medieval architecture, volcanic landscape, and a gastronomic tradition deeply rooted in the Tuscia territory.

History and origins of Viterbo

The earliest traces of settlement in the Viterbo area date back to the Villanovan period and the subsequent Etruscan civilisation, which steadily occupied the area between the 9th and 4th centuries BC.

The city’s name itself has obscure roots: some interpretations link it to medieval Latin forms, others to pre-Latin substrates that are difficult to decipher.

What the sources confirm with certainty is that during the 8th and 9th centuries AD, the urban nucleus gradually gained strategic importance as a control point along the routes towards Rome, along the Via Cassia.

Viterbo’s moment of greatest political ascent coincides with the period between the 12th and 14th centuries, when the city became the regular residence of popes fleeing the upheavals of Rome.

Between 1257 and 1281, no fewer than six conclaves were held in Viterbo, and it was here in 1268 that the longest conclave in Church history began: it lasted nearly three years, until 1271, concluded only after the citizens of Viterbo quite literally removed the roof of the palace to hasten the cardinals’ decision.

That extraordinary episode bestowed upon the city a historical distinction never forgotten.

In 1271 Gregory X was elected in Viterbo itself, and the event gave impetus to the formal codification of the rules governing the conclave.

Between the 14th and 15th centuries, Viterbo passed through alternating phases of communal autonomy, domination by local lordships, and reabsorption into the Papal State.

The 16th century brought substantial stabilisation under direct papal control, along with significant building interventions within the urban fabric.

The 19th and 20th centuries saw the city progressively integrate into the Italian infrastructure network, culminating in its designation as the capital of the homonymous province in 1927.

In the surrounding territory, villages such as Civitella d’Agliano share with Viterbo the volcanic matrix of the landscape and the historical layering typical of the Tuscia region, with settlements that overlap from the Etruscan age through to the communal Middle Ages.

What to see in Viterbo: main attractions

Palazzo dei Papi

The Gothic loggia opening along the southern flank of the Palazzo dei Papi is one of the best-preserved medieval civic structures in Italy: seven ogival arches in peperino stone project above Piazza San Lorenzo at a height of approximately 12 metres, with paired colonnettes supporting foliate capitals of rare refinement.

The palace was built from 1255 onwards to house the papal court, at a time when Viterbo served as an alternative seat to Rome.

The Aula del Conclave, the great interior hall where the papal elections of the thirteenth century were held, retains its fourteenth-century structure with cross vaults and exposed peperino block walls.

Those who cross the square in the early morning, when raking light accentuates the texture of the volcanic stone, can clearly perceive the difference between the original blocks and later additions.

Access to the palace is through the entrance on Piazza San Lorenzo; it is advisable to check opening times and visiting conditions on the official website of the Municipality of Viterbo before setting out.

Medieval quarter of San Pellegrino

The San Pellegrino quarter occupies the north-western sector of the historic centre and represents one of the best-preserved examples of medieval urban planning in central Italy, covering approximately 4 hectares of almost entirely intact street fabric.

The peperino tower-houses, the profferli — the characteristic external staircases that project over the alleyway — and the aerial bridges connecting buildings in different ownership together form a building system datable primarily to between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries.

No street in the quarter runs straight: the layout follows the contour lines of the volcanic plateau, producing irregular vistas where the light shifts at every bend.

Each year in May the quarter hosts the Fiera di San Pellegrino, a medieval event that brings artisan and commercial life back to the streets where the weekly market was held in the thirteenth century.

The quarter can be explored on foot independently; the main entrance is located near Via San Pellegrino.

Cathedral of San Lorenzo

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo stands at the summit of the Duomo hill, in an elevated position above the square of the same name, with its bell tower in two-tone bands of peperino and travertine reaching a height of approximately 40 metres.

The founding of the church dates back to the twelfth century, but the present building incorporates layers ranging from the original Romanesque through to the reconstructions that followed the severe damage sustained during the Second World War, when the bombing raids of 1944 destroyed part of the naves.

The Cosmatesque floor, made from polychrome marble tesserae arranged in geometric figures, is one of the medieval decorative elements to have survived the wartime events.

The façade, restrained in its volumes and decoration, contrasts with the richness of the interior, where the Gothic baldachin above the high altar immediately draws the eye.

The cathedral is open for worship throughout the year; tourist access is suspended during liturgical services.

Terme del Bullicame

Approximately 2 km from the centre of Viterbo, the Bullicame spring emits sulphurous water at a constant temperature of 58 degrees Celsius, forming a naturally occurring circular basin with a diameter of over 30 metres.

Dante Alighieri cited the Bullicame in the Inferno (Canto XIV), describing it as an image of a river of boiling water, which attests to the spring’s fame as early as the thirteenth century.

Around the main basin, small channels branch off that once served the public laundries of the medieval city, fed by the warm water of the spring itself: a hydrothermal exploitation system documented in written sources dating back at least to the twelfth century.

The landscape setting is that of a plateau of whitish travertine deposits, where vegetation thins out to give way to mineral flows.

The area is freely accessible; nearby, thermal establishments operate with facilities equipped for bathing and treatments.

Medieval walls and Porta San Pietro

The walls of Viterbo form a perimeter of approximately 4 km enclosing the entire historic centre, with an average height ranging between 8 and 12 metres depending on the section.

The defensive circuit incorporates pre-existing Etruscan structures at several points, identifiable by the irregularly cut tufa blocks that make up the bases, above which the medieval courses in worked peperino are set.

Porta San Pietro, on the southern side, is the best-preserved gate in the defensive system: two cylindrical fourteenth-century towers flank the ogival entrance arch, and the municipal coat of arms of Viterbo bearing the rampant lion can still be read on the architrave.

Walking the wall-walk along the stretch between Porta Romana and Porta San Pietro allows visitors to observe both the roofline of the historic centre and the Tuscia countryside to the south. Some sections of the wall-walk are ac

Typical cuisine and products of Viterbo

The cuisine of the Tuscia Viterbese is rooted in a peasant tradition that turned frugality into a technique, transforming humble ingredients — legumes, wild vegetables, farmyard meats, stale bread — into recognisable and codified preparations.

Viterbo’s geographical position, on the border between northern Lazio and the Lazio Maremma, encouraged exchanges and cross-influences with Umbrian and Tuscan cuisine, while preserving well-defined local characteristics.

Lake Bolsena, approximately 30 km from the city, has historically provided freshwater fish — in particular whitefish, tench and eel — which appears in recipes documented since at least the Renaissance.

Among the more elaborate dishes of the Viterbese tradition, acquacotta is the most frequently cited: a soup made with dry bread, onion, tomato, eggs and grated pecorino, served in a clay pot, which shepherds and farm labourers would prepare over an open fire while working in the fields.

Lombrichelli is the most characteristic fresh pasta format of the area, a thick spaghetti with an irregular cross-section made by working semolina and water without eggs, traditionally dressed with a tomato and garlic sauce or a meat ragù.

The frasche — informal establishments that traditionally hung a bay branch above the door to signal the availability of wine on tap — are still found in the area and often serve cold cuts and local cheeses as accompaniments.

Among the officially recognised products found in the Viterbo area are Cacio fiore (PAT) — municipalities: Viterbo, Guanciale (PAT) — municipalities: Viterbo, and Guanciale amatriciano (PAT) — municipalities: Viterbo.

Guanciale, obtained from the pig’s cheek and cured with salt, black pepper and aromatics, is the essential ingredient in both pasta alla gricia and amatriciana, two preparations that the Lazio tradition claims with great conviction.

Cacio fiore is a soft cheese made from whole sheep’s milk, coagulated with vegetable rennet derived from the flower of wild artichoke or thistle: a pre-Roman cheesemaking technique, attested by Latin sources, which survives in a handful of artisan producers in the Viterbo area.

In September, coinciding with the patronal feast, the markets of the historic centre expand their offering of local products; in October, festivals dedicated to chestnuts animate several inland municipalities of the Tuscia, at distances ranging from 15 to 40 km from Viterbo.

For those wishing to purchase certified products directly from producers, the farmers’ markets held periodically in Piazza delle Erbe remain the most direct point of reference.

Those who want to explore the dairy production of the area may also look towards Bassano in Teverina, a small centre in the province of Viterbo where the artisan processing of sheep’s milk maintains a documented productive continuity.

Festivals, events and traditions of Viterbo

Viterbo’s patronal feast is celebrated on 4 September in honour of Rosa da Viterbo, a Franciscan tertiary born in the city around 1233 and who died in 1251.

The central moment of the celebration is the Macchina di Santa Rosa, a wooden and papier-mâché structure over 30 metres tall and weighing approximately 52 quintals, illuminated by thousands of candles and lamps, which is carried on the shoulders of a group of around 100 bearers — the Facchini di Santa Rosa — through the streets of the historic centre on the evening of 3 September.

The route, approximately 1 km long, connects the church of Santa Rosa with the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.

The tradition is documented from the seventeenth century, although earlier forms of processional transport date back to the fifteenth century; in 2013 the Macchina di Santa Rosa was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as part of the great Italian shoulder-carried machines.

In addition to the patronal feast, Viterbo annually hosts the Caffeina Culture Festival, a summer event dedicated to culture, literature and the arts held between June and July in the spaces of the historic centre, with open-air events in the main squares.

In May, as already mentioned, the San Pellegrino quarter is transformed for the Medieval Fair, with craftspeople, musicians and costumed performers reconstructing scenes of thirteenth-century urban life.

The city also maintains a tradition of historical Carnival, with processions involving the historic districts in competitive forms rooted in medieval custom.

When to visit Viterbo and how to get there

The period between April and June offers optimal conditions for visiting Viterbo: temperatures remain between 14 and 24 degrees Celsius, the surrounding countryside is green, and cultural events begin to enliven the historic centre.

September is the month of the patron saint’s feast and coincides with one of the most significant tourist gatherings of the year: the evening of 3 September, with the procession of the Macchina di Santa Rosa, draws tens of thousands of visitors.

Those who prefer the city less crowded can choose October or November, months when the climate remains mild and the inland food festivals offer opportunities to explore the surrounding area without queues.

Summers are warm but rarely scorching at 326 metres above sea level, with peaks that rarely exceed 34 degrees Celsius.

By car, Viterbo can be reached from the A1 motorway (Milan–Naples) by exiting at the Orte toll gate, approximately 25 km from the city, and continuing along the SS 204 or the SS 675 Umbro-Laziale.

From Rome, you travel along the Via Cassia (SS 2) for approximately 90 km, or use the ring road and the SS 675.

Viterbo’s railway station is served by the Trenitalia line with connections from Roma Ostiense via Orte and from Roma Porta San Paolo via Capranica; the journey time from Rome varies between 1 hour 50 minutes and 2 hours depending on the line and type of train.

The nearest airport is Leonardo da Vinci in Fiumicino, approximately 100 km away, connected to Viterbo by car in around 1 hour and 20 minutes via the A1 and SS 675. For up-to-date timetables, please check directly on the carriers’ official websites.

Departure point	Distance	Estimated time
Rome (Via Cassia)	approx. 90 km	approx. 1 h 30 min
Orte toll gate (A1)	approx. 25 km	approx. 25 min
Fiumicino Airport	approx. 100 km	approx. 1 h 20 min
Florence (A1 + SS 675)	approx. 230 km	approx. 2 h 30 min

Where to stay in Viterbo

The historic centre of Viterbo is home to a range of accommodation options spanning from small bed and breakfasts housed in the historic buildings of San Pellegrino and the Santa Maria Nuova district to mid-category hotels near the medieval gates.

Several agriturismo properties are located in the immediate surrounding countryside, within a radius of 5–15 km from the city, often connected with the area’s wine and olive oil production.

To check availability, prices and up-to-date options, it is recommended to consult the municipal portal or official booking platforms, as the accommodation offer is subject to significant seasonal variations, especially around 3–4 September.

Those wishing to build a longer itinerary through the Tuscia region may also look towards Casperia, a village in the Lazio Sabina area with a compact medieval layout and a decent selection of small family-run accommodation, or towards Borgo Velino, in the inland Rieti area, which shares with the Viterbo region a tradition of traditional cured meat production and offers an alternative stopover for those travelling the route towards central Italy.